June 2nd, 2003.
We came down to breakfast again the next day, to find two places set at a table waiting for us, as the only other guests, the research biologists, obviously got going earlier than us. We were setting off back to Villa Zandoli in Reduit Beach, back to the heart of the tourist action. But first we had to get gas, with no cash…we decided not to risk the drive with the low tank and opted to return to Vieux Fort as every gas station we tried on the way would only accept cash. We even tried to get cash at the Mon Repos Credit Union, with no luck, but it was only a short distance to retrace our steps.
When we were on our way again, we decided to stop at what is supposed to be the prettiest falls on the island, called Sault or Errard (by the locals) Falls. The Rough Guide advised 4WD was a must but didn’t give great directions so we missed the turn off and drove quite a long way into the interior; our mistake was witnessed by an opportunist local farmer who signaled us on our way back to get a ride into the nearest local town, Dennery (very quiet except for massive fresh fish fry every Friday). He showed us where the falls were, which we found had also been affected by the dry season.
These falls we’d gone a long way out of our way to find (and a very bumpy way at that) were a mere trickle slipping down the flat rock face. We enjoyed seeing a local family arrive with a picnic to take a dip in what remained of the pool at the base.
Thank goodness the main road back to Castries was smooth; little could we imagine when we set out on our journey on this same road one week earlier what kind of roads we would encounter! We stopped at the same lunch kiosk at the Castries market as we had on the day we set out. The mother & daughter remembered us and asked us what we’d done in the past week. We were quite relieved to pull up outside Pete’s colorful Villa Zandoli and find a king-size bed in our new room with an a/c unit. We chilled out and then set out on yet another adventure on our last full day as people in possession of a jeep.
Another destination requiring 4WD, Cas en Bas beach, where we were appalled to find the Florida tradition of driving on the beach was also practiced. Peter tried sunbathing and I sat in the shade. We took a dip and watched a tourist couple ride horses along the beach and then into the water. I’m sure horses don’t like dried salt on their fur, but who knows…?
On our return, we went out to dinner at The Lime, recommended by Zandoli’s housekeeper, Barbara. We took a moonlit walk (by just a slither of moon, so it was very dark!) along Reduit Beach, and peeped into the old-time fancy restaurants. There were more tourists around (even though we still ate alone!) and finished the evening out at Elena’s genuine gelateria. Peter had white chocolate & cherry and Tara had a 3-combo of hazelnut, mango and Martinica (rum chocolate). That branch was closing for two weeks, to Tara's horror, after that night but we were reassured that there was nother store at the marina, well worth the walk.
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