June 2nd, 2003.
We came down to breakfast again the next day, to find
two places set at a table waiting for us, as the only other guests,
the research biologists, obviously got going earlier than us. We
were setting off back to Villa Zandoli in Reduit Beach, back to
the heart of the tourist action. But first we had to get gas, with
no cash…we decided not to risk the drive with the low tank
and opted to return to Vieux Fort as every gas station we tried
on the way would only accept cash. We even tried to get cash at
the Mon Repos Credit Union, with no luck, but it was only a short
distance to retrace our steps.
When
we were on our way again, we decided to stop at what is supposed
to be the prettiest falls on the island, called Sault or Errard
(by the locals) Falls. The Rough Guide advised 4WD was a must but
didn’t give great directions so we missed the turn off and
drove quite a long way into the interior; our mistake was witnessed
by an opportunist local farmer who signaled us on our way back to
get a ride into the nearest local town, Dennery (very quiet except
for massive fresh fish fry every Friday). He showed us where the
falls were, which we found had also been affected by the dry season.
These
falls we’d gone a long way out of our way to find (and a very
bumpy way at that) were a mere trickle slipping down the flat rock
face. We enjoyed seeing a local family arrive with a picnic to take
a dip in what remained of the pool at the base.
Thank
goodness the main road back to Castries was smooth; little could
we imagine when we set out on our journey on this same road one
week earlier what kind of roads we would encounter! We stopped at
the same lunch kiosk at the Castries market as we had on the day
we set out. The mother & daughter remembered us and asked us
what we’d done in the past week. We were quite relieved to
pull up outside Pete’s colorful Villa Zandoli and find a king-size
bed in our new room with an a/c unit. We chilled out and then set
out on yet another adventure on our last full day as people in possession
of a jeep.
 Another destination requiring 4WD, Cas en
Bas beach, where we were appalled to find the Florida tradition
of driving on the beach was also practiced. Peter tried sunbathing
and I sat in the shade. We took a dip and watched a tourist couple
ride horses along the beach and then into the water. I’m sure
horses don’t like dried salt on their fur, but who knows…?
On
our return, we went out to dinner at The Lime, recommended by Zandoli’s
housekeeper, Barbara. We took a moonlit walk (by just a slither
of moon, so it was very dark!) along Reduit Beach, and peeped into
the old-time fancy restaurants. There were more tourists around
(even though we still ate alone!) and finished the evening out at
Elena’s genuine gelateria. Peter had white chocolate &
cherry and Tara had a 3-combo of hazelnut, mango and Martinica (rum
chocolate). That branch was closing for two weeks, to Tara's horror,
after that night but we were reassured that there was nother store
at the marina, well worth the walk.
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